Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Cairns & Great Barrier Reef (January 5 - 11)

Cairns (pronounce 'cans') was Matt and I's final major stop in Australia. After our arrival at Northern Greenhouse (our hostel), we decided to grab breakfast. We ate at Lilly Pad Cafe, which came with a high recommendation from our hostel receptionist. We were not disappointed, I was treated to arguably the best breakfast burrito of my life that came in an American sized portion, not to mention that it was reasonably priced. The remainder of our first day was laid back. We thought we might see a movie, but turned around and left to the sound of $17.50 AUD. That was for a matinee... Instead, we chilled at the hostel and watched Elysium. A disappointing film that had an intriguing plot, but was poorly executed. The remainder of the night was uneventful with the exception of meeting our roommate whose lung exploded from a scuba accident the previous day, which was reassuring since we were about to begin our diving course the following morning...

The next morning, Matt and I were picked up by Pro Dive Cairns, which I would highly recommend for anyone planning on traveling to the Great Barrier Reef. Everything was first class, efficient, and flawlessly communicated. I had no concerns by the time I got into the water.

Blah, Blah, Blah, paperwork, quizzes, fun facts, film study, exams, and classroom work completed! It consumed a few days, but was well worth it. In between those days, we did happen to spend one of the nights on the Esplanade playing beach volleyball followed by an excellent Italian dinner at Little Ricardo's. I also spent a few hundred dollars on my snorkeling gear, which fits me perfectly and as long as I take care of it should never need replacing. Best of all, no more water seeping into my snorkel mask.

Our final night before boarding the boat to spend the next few days on the Great Barrier Reef, Matt and I attended a two hour presentation. Garreth, a South African marine biologist, does research on the reef and does a nightly presentation called "Reef Teach". He tells you about the wildlife you may see at the reef and where to look for specific species of animals.

Now to the Reef! Enter slideshow...












































Stingray: "Anyone see me?"

Everywhere you look there is an ongoing competition for your attention: coral of all colors, trigger fish, anemone fish, reef sharks, stingrays, giant clams, sea turtles, eels, cuddle fish, Moorish idol fish, puffer fish, barracudas, nudibranchs, and many other species that overwhelm your viewing pleasure. Over the course of three days, Matt and I did nine dives and one snorkeling session. On the boat all we did was eat, sleep, and prepare ourselves for the next dive. It was surprisingly unclaustrophobic spending three days straight on the boat. By the end of the trip, we both had received our Open Water certifications, which means we can dive up to 18 meters for the rest of our lives.

My favorite story from the boat trip took place during the night dive, which is normally reserved only for Advanced Divers. However, we were fortunate to be included and it provided us with a much different experience than diving at the reef during the day. At night, reef sharks would swarm the boat making the thought of entering the water increasingly alarming, but I brushed these thoughts aside and jumped in...

The boat radiated light and I was able to see reef sharks and barracudas almost instantly after entering the water. I was taken aback by how peaceful it was diving at night. You are given a flashlight and are able to see the wildlife that is moving freely during the day hiding beneath coral looking up at you with terror at night. Matt and I were also fortunate to see several giant sea turtles resting in their caves over the course of the night dive. We were able to see them with a special red flashlight that makes them visible, but doesn't disturb their rest. One of which was as big as a tabletop, it was simply massive. Our instructors estimate that sea turtle to be 150 or more years old.

Nearing the end of the dive, Matt and I headed up to the surface where our group circled up to do our safety stop. As we circled up, a few sharks began circling our group until one moved to the center of the circle. All of a sudden I felt something swim between my legs, hitting the inside of my thighs while I watched the shark instantaneously follow whatever went through my legs. The shark was bigger and stronger and knocked me back in the water. I remained surprisingly calm, but couldn't help thinking "Is this a shark attack?" I thought remaining still was my best option so I refused to move until I counted to ten. Once I felt comfortable moving again, everyone in the group surfaced. I was greeted with "WOW!!!", "That was so cool!", and "I wish that would have been me!". My response was "Well, it was a different experience for me." I was elated to have such a close interaction with a shark and it not be life threatening. Immediately after removing myself from the water, I knew that this story would stick with me for as long as I live.

Our scuba instructors: Lisa (Left) and The Perry Roos (Right)

I have to take a moment to mention one of the most ridiculous individuals I've ever met, The Perry Roos. Over the course of our scuba course, Perry became a folk hero to Matt and I. His unique speech pattern of using "yea" as a space filler is celebrated on four continents. Example, "We're going to get off the boat, yea. Follow the rope to descend, yea. Get to the bottom, happy days!" His statuesque body and ability to do a Captain Morgan pose in any situation are worshiped throughout Australia. In all seriousness, Perry was a friendly and helpful guy who left Matt and I with a lasting impression.

Of all the stops we made along the way in Australia, this was the most challenging to explain because it was an adventure into a unfamiliar underwater world. In fact, I don't want to explain it because I hope that all of you are someday able and will take the opportunity to see this natural wonder of the world that is beyond description. At the same time, be aware that the Great Barrier Reef has lost over 50% of its coral cover in the past 30 years due to rising sea temperatures. Make sure to do your part and promote a healthy planet because a world without our natural wonders is one that is troubling to imagine.

Thank you to my close Indo buddy, Matt Phillips, for making our trip unforgettable. These memories will last forever!

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