Nancy: Tibet Countryside & Mount Everest

Following the excitement in Lhasa, I stared at thousands of miles of open road on my way to Gyantse, Shigatse, and ultimately Mount Everest before returning to Kathmandu in Nepal. Our road, the Tibet Scenic Highway, was one of the most beautiful drives I have ever taken. It rivals and possibly beats both the California State Route 1 that hugs the Pacific coastline and the Great Ocean Road, home of the 12 Apostles, that hugs the southern belly of Victoria, Australia.

General Outline of Road Trip

Mountainous Road Taken to Our First Stop

Our first stop was high up in the mountains, upon exiting the van I froze for the first time in a long time having lived on the equator for the past year. We stopped to overlook one of the most elevated lakes in the world (4,441 m or 14,570 ft), Yamdrok Lake. This lake is one of the three largest sacred lakes in Tibet. It is over 72 km (45 mi) long and surrounded by mountains. The lake is believed to be the transformation of a goddess, which is why it is considered sacred by Tibetans. According to Wikipedia, Tibetans believe that mountains and lakes "are the dwelling places of protective deities and therefore invested with special spiritual powers... It is considered sacred as one of the four 'Great Wrathful Lakes' guarded by the goddess Dorje Gegkyi Tso."

As this was a common tourist stop there were a handful of Tibetans offering to take photos with tourists, while others prayed.

Tibetan Woman Praying to Yamdrok Lake

View of Yamdrok Lake from the Top of the Pass

Me, Matt, Aaron, & A Tibetan Mastiff

Tibetan Mastiff's are guardians and responsible for protecting the livestock of nomadic Tibetans. They are a large and friendly breed.

Prayer Flags at the Base of Yamdrok Lake

As mentioned above, Yamdrok Lake is a holy place, which is why you will find many Tibetan prayer flags at the base of the lake. The flags are "used to promote peace, compassion, strength, and wisdom... Tibetans believe the prayers and mantras will be blown by the wind to spread the good will and compassion into all pervading space. Therefore, prayer flags are thought to bring benefit to all." As the images fade over time, Tibetans continue to hang new flags next to old ones, which symbolizes the welcoming of life's changes and an acknowledgement of one of Buddhists' central beliefs, all beings are part of a greater ongoing cycle.

The prayer flags traditionally contain an image of a strong horse with three jewels on its back. One jewel represents Buddha, another the Dharma or Buddhist teachings, and the third the Sangha for the Buddhist community. The horse is a symbol of speed and the transformation from bad to good luck. The writing surrounding these images are mantras dedicated to deities, as well as prayers for long life and good fortune for the person who hangs up the flag. Finally, on each of the four corners are a dragon, garuda, tiger, and snowlion used to express power.

The flags "are arranged from left to right in a specific order: blue, white, red, green and yellow... Blue symbolizes the sky and space, white symbolizes the air and wind, red symbolizes fire, green symbolizes water, and yellow symbolizes earth... health and harmony are produced through the balance of the five elements" (Wikipedia).

These beautiful prayer flags were another piece of Tibetan culture discouraged or destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, fortunately they were not entirely extinguished.

Prayer Flags at the Base of Yamdrok Lake

Our next stop was one of the most majestic things I have even seen... my first glacier. Nestled at the base (5,560 m or 18,241 ft) of the Karola Glacier was a beautiful stuppa paying homage to the sublime surroundings. At the base, there is a gift shop selling precious stones and Tibetans willing to take pictures with you for a price.

Stuppa

Karola Glacier

Aaron & I in Front of the Karola Glacier

Later that day we arrived in Gyantse and toured the Palcho Monastery (1418). This monastery is the only one to house three different sects of Tibetan Buddhism, making it rather unique. The entire area is surrounded by high walls built centuries ago to protect it from Mongolian invaders. Next to the Palcho Monastery rests the Kumbum Stuppa, which is said to contain over 100,000 images.

Kumbum's shape is meant to resemble a mandala painting. A mandala represents the universe and each layer represents a gate that you must pass through to reach the center, enlightenment. Buddhists stare at mandalas for years learning every detail as a form of meditation to reach enlightenment. Mandalas are commonly made with sand to symbolize the impermanence of life; as soon as the sand mandala is finished, the sand is mixed together and what was, is no more. To the right is a picture of the mandala painting I bought. Unfortunately, the picture does not do it justice as the intricate detail and gold are difficult to capture in a photo.

Kumbum Stuppa (Center), Palcho Monastery (Right), High Walls (In the Distance)

Humorously while touring Palcho Monastery, our tour guide shared a children's story on how to escape a Yeti. If you should ever see a Yeti, be sure to run downhill as the Yeti's long hair will get in its eyes and will lose track of you. My blog not only provides historical insight into my travels, but also provides practical survival information as well.

Pillar of Prayer Flags in the Courtyard

The final stop of the day was in Shigatse, which is the second largest city in Tibet. We visited the labyrinth that is Tashilhunpo Monastery. Founded by the 1st Dalai Lama (1447), the monastery is famous for two reasons. First, it houses the largest copper Buddha statue in the world. Its imposing enormity stands 26.2 m or 86 ft tall, a single finger is almost four feet long. According to our tour guide, the statue contains over 270 kg (600 lbs) of gold and 150,000 kg (330,000 lbs) of copper and brass on a wooden frame. Fortunately, this mammoth was untouched. Unfortunately, many buildings and temples still exhibit areas of destruction from the Chinese Cultural Revolution. Given the prominence of the monastery, it has always been a target for conquest from the Nepalese Gurkha to the Mongolians to the Chinese.

Tashilhunpo Monastery

The second and more politically relevant reason why this monastery is famous; it holds the seat of the Panchen Lama, which is the second highest ranking monk in Tibetan Buddhism after the Dalai Lama. Making him a significant political and spiritual figure. Now for the controversy... There are two identified 11th incarnations of the Panchen Lama. Gedhun Choekyi Nyima was selected on May 14, 1995 by His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, and is considered the true Panchen Lama. However, the Communist Party of China announced Gyaincain Norbu as the new Panchen Lama. Shortly thereafter, Gedhun Choekyi Nyima vanished at the age of six. According to Wikipedia, Chinese officials:

"stated that Gedhun had been taken into protective custody from those that would spirit him into exile and is now held in captivity against the wishes of the Tibetan people. Tibetans and human rights groups continue to campaign for his release... The involvement of China in this affair is seen by some as a political ploy to try to gain control over the recognition of the next Dalai Lama, and to strengthen their hold over the future of Tibet and its governance. China claims however, that their involvement does not break with tradition in that the final decision about the recognition of both the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama traditionally rested in the hands of the Chinese emperor."

This issue continues to raise concerns about the potential of the Chinese government installing their own choice of Dalai Lama when Tenzin Gyatso eventually dies. These events have led to the current Dalai Lama announcing in 2011 that it is his desire to be the final Dalai Lama. Many Tibetan Buddhists disapprove of his announcement, building resentment as many believe it it not his decision to make. The Chinese backed Panchen Lama, Gyaincain Norbu, is rarely at home in Tashilhunpo Monastery as his presence leads to raised tensions between the Chinese and Tibetans.

As I said previously, the political situation in Tibet is fascinating, but entirely disheartening.

Tashilhunpo Monastery

During the tour of Tashilhunpo Monastery, I listened to an entertaining story of why monks are not supposed to drink, have sex, or kill... Once there was a monk who stayed overnight on a family farm during his travels. Late in the evening the wife of the farmer blackmailed him into either drinking a pitcher of beer, killing a sheep, or having sex with her. The monk contemplated his options and decided drinking the beer was the least harmful option. After he consumed the pitcher, he was intoxicated and perceptible to sex. After having sex with the farmer's wife, he was so enraged with himself that he killed the sheep. That is why monks are not allowed to drink, have sex, or kill.

Tashilhunpo Monastery Doorway

That evening we heard the devastating news that a massive landslide occurred just over the border of China in Nepal, killing hundreds and making the roads impassable. We were forced to alter our travel plans and pay for a helicopter to take us from the Nepalese border to Kathmandu. This was an uncomfortable situation as we were all at the mercy of our tour company. Once we would cross the border we would have no way of contacting our tour company and had to leave the viability of this actually working to chance. The uncertainty of it all made me quite nervous.

The following morning we headed out early from Shigatse, on our way to the ceiling of the world, Mount Everest! Which is to say we covered a great distance, exceeding 11 hours of driving on some of the bumpiest and most unsettling roads I've ever driven on. This was merely a precursor to the misery of the altitude sickness to come.

Tibetan Prayer Flags on the Road to Mount Everest

Countryside on the Way to Mount Everest

Mount Everest

We finally reached Mount Everest! A milestone! And it was beyond words... However, the pain in my head was not beyond words. In both this and the below picture, I forced myself to smile. As we approached the base camp my head began pounding only to culminate when I exited the bus. I took two steps, two steps! And had to stop because of shortness of breath. I was paralyzed, I could not believe the impact altitude sickness had on me. The entire first night I was conflicted, I was obviously elated to be standing in front of one of the world's natural wonders, yet absolutely physically miserable. My headache rivaled my few migraines in my life with the added bonus of controlling my breathing and ensuring I did not make any unnecessary movements. The slightest head tilt causes you to gasp for air. I was quickly bed ridden and had to take oxygen to improve my condition. It was a night to remember...

Our Room & Me in Horrible Pain

Me, Matt, & Aaron at Mount Everest

World's Highest Monastery

The following morning was time for our final four kilometer hike up Mount Everest to the actual base camp... I moved at a glacial pace as each step was a battle, luckily the constant hammering in my head had dissippated marginally from the day prior encouraging me to trudge onward and upward.

Path to Base Camp

Himalayan Yak

Hiking & Flower

I'm pretty sure this is the hallucinogenic plant Ra's Al Ghul uses in Batman Begins...

Himalayan Goats

River at the Base Camp

Tour Group at Everest Base Camp

Everest Base Camp

Wow, I cannot express enough admiration for those who attempt the daunting task of climbing this mammoth. These were possibly the most exhausting days I've ever encountered. Simply finding enough oxygen for your brain to function properly was a challenge, the idea of climbing to its peak seems nearly unimaginable. I say this too often, but seeing Everest... no words.

Stop on the Road Back to Nepal

Prayer Flags

No Words...

I had an unbelievable time in Tibet, but unless things drastically change politically I will likely not seek a return visit. There was too much red tape, overt oppression and despotism directed at Tibetans by the Chinese government. We stopped at 15 to 20 checkpoints over the course of a few days driving from Lhasa to Nepal, proving nothing but an excessive military presence in Tibet. I hope those reading my blog will not only be more cognizant of the issues, but raise awareness to others as well. Tibetans are a resilient group of people living in one of the harshest climates in the world and their lives are made more challenging as their culture is slowly dissolved and white washed.

China (Left) / Nepal (Right) Border

Valley Separating China & Nepal

As I mentioned earlier, there was a terrible landslide that claimed the lives of hundreds of Nepalese; forcing us to take a helicopter from the border of Nepal to Kathmandu. Witnessing the devastation from the helicopter's aerial view reminded me of the fragility of life and how blessed I am to be having all of these incredible experiences.